Cafe Opening: Get To Know Maloca Coffee
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We're excited to introduce you to our new Shelter Cafe, Maloca Coffee. We sat down with owner, Renato, to pick his brains about his coffee journey, Brazilian coffee, and their plans for the cafe.
To kick things off, join us at The Shelter tomorrow (Friday 16 August) between 4 and 7pm to celebrate the opening of Maloca! Not to mention you'll be able to try the specialty Brazilian Coffee Negroni...
Tell us about your first cup of coffee.
I was probably 5-6 years old, it was a “pingado” which in Portuguese means “dropped”. Its literally a drop of very strong coffee in warm milk and lots of sugar, prepared by my grandmother at her farm, next to the woodfired stove. The moment is still very vivid in my mind. Drinking coffee is a bonding event in Brazil, it brings people together. That’s probably why I have a very intimate connection with coffee, it reminds me of my loved ones.
How was Maloca coffee born?
It was born from my obsession with coffee. From the desire to share how good Brazilian coffee can be and to bring the motherland a bit closer to home. When I moved to New Zealand over 8 years ago I was amazed with the coffee scene here, how much coffee people consume every day and how hard the coffee companies work to deliver a good cuppa. I then saw an opportunity to contribute to the scene with something unique.

You are a Brazilian specialty coffee pioneer in Auckland, what would you like Kiwis to know about Brazilian coffee?
That Brazilian beans can be as good as any Kenyans and Ethiopians. Brazilian coffee is underrated outside Brazil, even amongst coffee professionals and it’s our own fault! Coffee in Brazil has always been a commodity product and it’d been for decades Brazil’s main product of export, meaning that the focus was always on quantity rather than quality, everyone across the chain would get underpaid, especially the farmers, and the big corporations would make a huge profit. But a few years ago, a big shift started to happen inside Brazil led by a few people that started investing in a closer relationship with the farmers, improving their post harvesting technics and making them understand that a direct trade benefits everyone. Bottom line is, farmers are able to live a better life- they get paid more, the environment is looked after, the coffee industry has more and more access to good quality and the consumer drinks better.
What’s the difference between Brazilian filter coffee and New Zealand filter coffee?
Coffee in Brazil is always filtered. I don’t think people drink enough filter here in New Zealand. It’s a movement that has happened everywhere else but kiwis are a bit resilient to that. It’s hard let go on the flat white right?! But it’s slowly shifting as people are discovering that filter coffee can taste good, really good.
Can you talk us through some of the different flavours in your coffee?
We are only working with microlots, very special coffees with limited production. We currently have our espresso coffee which is a blend of two beans that come from the same farm in Minas Gerais state, it’s very sweet, with a fruity acidity that lingers in your mouth. We also have 2 single origins from different farms designed specially for filter. They both come from the high mountains of Espírito Santo state. One is slightly savoury with a funky fermentation and the other is clean, sweet with high acidity. We often chuck them in the espresso machine to try out and they both drink great as an espresso too. Espírito Santo is the next big thing when it comes to Brazilian specialty beans, high altitudes with cold and dry nights give us a very clean and fruity coffee, high body and acidity.

How has your experience with Maloca coffee changed the way you consume coffee? Is your cup of coffee different now than it was 5 years ago?
It definitely is, I now have a more critical approach to quality and I’m always searching for new flavours and ways to prepare. There are so many moving parts that can affect your cup: weather, farming practices, roasting, grinding, water, etc. learning how to control them well is my lifelong project.
Why do you think there has been a resurgence of filter coffee in the last few years?
Filtering allows you to appreciate subtler notes that disappear in the espresso. It’s a gentler process that preserves the most delicate flavours. I think people are willing to experiment more.
What is your personal favourite way to drink coffee?
Every way possible! It depends on the time of the day, I generally start my day with 2-3 espressos at the café while I’m calibrating the equipment for the day, that’s before we open. I then have a couple of flat whites – a habit I developed after moving to NZ and I just can’t let it go, then filter coffee throughout the day. And I love my cold brew too on hot summer days.
Can you tell me about your plans for Maloca coffee and your new café at The Shelter?
We want to become the go-to people when it comes to Brazilian coffee. Our mission is to keep hunting for special beans from different regions and showcase the vast Brazilian terroir. We have plans to setup our own roastery in the near future too. It’s been great to be at the Shelter, I believe our products match the concept of the store and Ponsonby is a great location to offer this type of thing. We have a beautiful food offer too, with toasted sandwiches and salads, classic treats and healthy options.
Where can we find you on social media?
You can find us on both FB and Instagram @malocacoffee